Last week, we talked about our experiences of bad reactions to ingredients in beauty products. It's a scary subject, and one that has certainly made me wary of using new products with additives I haven't already tried.
Unsure of the best approach needed to avoid these problems in future, I decided to seek advice from Paula Begoun, one of the world's leading experts on cosmetic ingredients and their effects on our skins. Paula is an independent expert with extensive knowledge of the beauty industry, and author of Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me; an extensive compilation of myth-busting skincare facts that every beauty junkie to know.
I threw some questions at Paula based on my concerns and on those of others who've had bad experiences with cosmetics. Read on over the jump for her advice!
1. If you've had a reaction to a product and don't know which ingredient caused it, how can you avoid encountering that same ingredient in the future?
If you know exactly what ingredient you are allergic to you can just look at the ingredient list on the product. But it is rarely that easy because it is almost impossible to figure out what is causing a reaction (it can be a single ingredient, a combination of ingredients, or the way a product. Because of the almost limitless combination of ingredients in all sorts of cosmetic formulations pin pointing the problem is like trying to find needle in a haystack. Your best recourse, and this is not the best news, is to keep experimenting until you find what works for you.
2. If you have sensitive skin that reacts badly to a lot of products, what's the best way to find ones that will better suit your skin?
Keep in mind that irritation and an allergic reaction is not the same thing. Irritation is something everyone reacts to the same (i.e. alcohol is drying and irritating, fragrant plant extracts create a volatile reaction). An allergic reaction is caused by a substance that causes your body to release histamines such as an allergic reaction to hay fever or dogs or cats. Again, the primary path is to experiment but it also helps
3. Are cheaper products more likely to cause bad reactions in users than pricier ones?
Absolutely not, lots of expensive products are loaded with irritating/sensitizing ingredients and may include an ingredient or combination of ingredients that could be causing an allergic reaction. It isn't about the quality of an ingredient (a great martini gets you just a drunk as moonshine).
4. How can you tell the difference between an allergic reaction and a less serious skin irritation?
It's very difficult. Generally an allergic reaction cause raised welts or bumps on the skin and irritation just a little redness and dryness. Plus allergic reactions once it happens can be very difficult to get rid of. Histamine reactions are stubborn and often require an antihistamine. Another major difference is that irritation can be taking place on skin and damaging collagen and skin cell production but doesn't show up on the surface of skin that is one of the things that make irritation so much more damaging than an allergic reaction.
5. Should you perform a 'patch test' every time you try a new product? How is this done?
You can, but different parts of the body react differently, the reaction can be a result of a mix of products you are using, and often the reactions happen overtime. It is very typical for a product you've been using for years all of a sudden causes a problem. A typical "patch test" is to put a product on your forearm and place an occlusive bandage over it. Wait three days and see what the skin looks like.