There are many bewildering words used in the beauty industry. We've just about got our head around 'mineral' and 'organic', when a whole new set of ingredients come onto the scene, and we have to start decoding our beauty products once more. The companies LOVE to use jargon and confusing 'complex of something or other' on their adverts, but it would be nice to know what it actually means, and make sure we're buying good products, and not letting the hype overhwhelm us. Here we give you the lowdown on some of the puzzling beauty buzzwords on the market.
- Antioxidant
- BioElectricty
- BHA - Beta Hydroxy Acid
- Botox
- Creatine
- Glycerin
- Grape Stem Cells
- Hyaluronic acid
- Oxygenating
- Natural/ Organic
- Paraben
- RetinA
- Reservatrol
- Silicones / Dimethicone
Antioxidants
What are they?
Antioxidants are any substance that reduces damage caused by oxygen (oxidative damage). They include a range of viatmins (Vit C & E being the big ones), and enzymes (like CoEQ10).
Why are they in my face cream?
The idea is that by protecting your skin from oxidative damage, antioxidants are functioning as anti-aging agents. We do know science has proven that oxygen and free-radicals (unattached molecules that cause oxidization) do indeed damage skin and body cells and play a part in aging. However, the effectiveness of topical antioxidants has yet to be proven as its potency must be measured over decades of constant use. But as most of these ingredients are good for you for other reasons, it probably doesn't hurt to have them in your skin care.
Which ingredients are Antioxidants?
Antioxidants come in many shapes and forms. But the major ones are Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid), Vitamin E (Tocopherol), beta carotene (converts into Vitamin A), selenium, zinc, and Co-Enzyme Q10. Many berry, and plant extracts contain these antioxidants and so are considered to be antioxidizing ingredients.
BioElectricty
What is it?
BioElectricity is something that occurs naturally in skin cells, and enables them to 'talk to eachother'. The process of bioelectricity works through the movement of ions (particles with a small positive or negative electrical charge) which happens between cells to create an electrical charge - just like a battery. Because cells are close together, the development of an electrical charge by one cell affects its neighbouring cell - passing electrical signals between them.
Why are they in my face cream?
The idea is that by using various different types of technologies (RoC call theirs E-pulse) you can create a cream which actually uses bioelectricity and creates an electrical charge which encourages cell-to-cell communication and skin regeneration. The product sends messages to the cells using bioelectricity rather than the product, so it penetrates really deeply, and doesn't irritate. Wow, this could be a seriously major breakthrough in skincare tech, as an issue was always just how to makes sure the active products got properly delivered
BHA - Beta Hydroxy Acid
What is it?
Pretty much the only BHA used in cosmetics is Salicylic Acid. Its main use is as an exfoliant as it breaks down sebum and oil binding dead skin cells together, allowing them to be sloughed off - helping with skin clarity and blemishes. Use of BHA has also been found to reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
BHA is an acid that contains the hydroxyl compound (-OH). It differs from AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) because it dissolves in oil, whereas AHAs only dissolve in water. It has also been proven to cause less skin irritation and sun-sensitivity than AHAs. It should be used in 2% concentrations to be effective.
Which ingredient is BHA?
BHA is generally known Salicylic Acid. In pharmaceuticals, it's also known as Asprin, and in some ingredient lists (usually in natural skincare lines) it is known as Willow Bark extract.
Botox
What is it?
Botox is the brand name for the genric druf called botulism toxin that is injected underneath skin in order to minimize or smooth out lines and wrinkles on the face.
Why would I want to use this?
The treatment has been around since the 1960's when it was first used therapeutically. It's the greatest way to prevent ageing in the face, as it will give the skin a smooth line free appearance, which no amount of topical lotions can achieve. It can also be used for other areas than the face, such as under the arms to help stop sweating, or around the rectum, to counteract anal fissures. There have also been links that suggest Botox can be a good antidepressant, as studies show a link to happiness in Botox users.
Creatine
Creatine is a new-comer to the beauty industry. Its most common use is as a supplement for athletes because it helps muscles in the energy creation process. However, new studies here and here have found indicators that creatine can be used to lighten pigmentation and, when coupled with folic acid (a form of Vitamin B), will help in cell regeneration.
What is it?
Creatine is an amino acid that occurs naturally in the body and it aids with the energy creation process. It is used in cosmetics mainly for anti-aging as it helps with skin repair, clarity, and moisturisation.
What ingredient is Creatine?
It is generally known as Creatine, however it has two other alternative unwieldy names: methyl guanidine-acetic acid and 2-(carbamimidoyl-methylamino)acetic acid.
Glycerin
What is it?
Glycerin is a clear thick liquid which freezes into a paste which has a high boiling point, It can be used with water or alcohol, which makes it a good solvent and has hygroscopic qualities which means that it takes moisture from the air. Used with water it's a good way of softening the skin.
Why is it in products?
Glycerin is a humectants, which helps attract moisture to the skin, so its inclusion in products often means you'll get high moisturising benefits and hopefully smooth softened skin. A high glycerin content in products can mean that you get less use out of them, as products with this are likely to dissolve quickly in water, meaning you may need to use more. It will be very gentle to the skin though, and is a godsend for those with sensitivities or children.
Grape Stem Cells
What are they?
Stem cells are un-programmed cells that can differentiate into cells with specific functions. They are defined by theircapacity to self-renew and can generate extra cells. Graoe stem cells are harvested from special grapes which have high anthocyanins ( powerful antioxidants) and they contain the ability to ptotect human stem cells against radiation, and help rejuvenate the skin.
Why are they in my face cream?
Caudalie have been using grape stem cells for years in their products and this is due to their impressive anti ageing qualities. Grape stem cells are a fantastic way of protecting the skin from UV damage, and the activity of skin stem cells is the key factor in ensuring the elasticity and regeneration capacity of the skin. Stem cells are the key source for continuous regeneration of the skin and help the face develop fresh new skin which is youthful. Grape stem cells add an extra boost to this regeneration process and can help delay signs of ageing in the body.
Hyaluronic acid
What is this?
Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan which is a substance that attaches to collagen and elastin to form cartilage. It occurs naturally in the human body and is central to regulating cell growth and renewal.
Why is it in my face cream?
This molecule can hold 1,000 times its own weight in water, making it the ultimate hydrator. When injected into the skin it helps smooth out fine lines, and as it's naturally and absorbed into the body has no long lasting side effects. It's available in injection form in the drug Restylane, and can be used to augment lips. It also helps the skin heal quicker and can help plump up the skin. Recent studies have shown that hyaluronic acid liquid can be either applied to the skin or ingested to counteract the effects of aging. Although hyaluronic acid can be found naturally in most every cell in the body, it is found in the greatest concentrations in the skin tissue.
Natural / Organic
What is it?
There is a difference between the labels natural and organic. For one thing, organic is a government-certified label, whereas "natural" is still remains uncontrolled. A product is considered organic if its ingredients are organically derived (no pesticides, no environmental harming practices), ingredients are not derived from petrochemicals. the manufacture of the product is environmentally friendly, and the packaging is biodegradable.
A "natural" product is generally assumed to contain 90-95% naturally derived plant-based ingredients. Meaning the ingredient was once housed in a plant, not synthesized in a lab. Whether this is better is open for debate. Some plant compounds are so complex that no lab can duplicate it at a price affordable to you. However, in most cases, a lab can produce the effective ingredient more cheaply and in purer grades without unknown toxins and additives that the plant-based derivative may have. The choice though is yours.
What to look out for
For organic certified products, look out for the UK Soil Association Organic Standard label. Additional labels that are good to look out for are the Not Tested on Animals label and Vegan label. To place these labels on their products, manufacturers must meet certain government-set standards.
Oxygenating
What is it?
The use of "Oxygen" in creams is something I have a serious problem with. For one thing, bombarding the skin with oxygen can only lead to oxidative damage (see Antioxidant), plus the two most common oxygen carriers are hydrogen peroxide (used to bleach hair) and benzoyl peroxide (used to treat pimples). Both are documented to cause free-radical damage to skin, although thanks to their antiseptic properties they are effective against pimples.
The argument by beauty companies is that "skin needs oxygen". This is true, however skin is very good at keeping things out. That's why you breath through your nose and not your skin, and why oxygen is delivered from your lungs, to your blood stream where it binds harmlessly with red blood cells which in turn deliver it to the rest of you - including your skin.
Although I doubt "Oxygen infused" creams have high enough concentrations of oxidants to harm you, I cannot help but doubt the miraculous claims made by beauty companies who have yet to produce conclusive research on the subject.
Which ingredient is Oxygen?
Well, some companies may be sneaky and list it as "Oxygen" which is actually nonsense since you cannot retain pure oxygen in gaseous form within a cream. If you did it would be highly flammable. Not good. Hydrogen Peroxide (H202) is however an oxidizing agent which is used cosmetically. Its connections to the process of bleaching hair however makes beauty companies reluctant to use it in their ingredient lists.
Parabens
What's all the flap about?
"Parabens" came into the spotlight when a research discovering the presence of parabens in tumours was published. Although no direct link between the presence of parabens and cancer has been established, its tendency to imitate the hormone oestrogen, to build up in the body, and to turn up in tumours just can't be good.
What are they?
Parabens are used as preserving agents in cosmetics. Without them, bacteria and fungus would contaminate the product and grow a whole lot faster. So, if you buy paraben-free products be sure to check the use-by-date and to toss after that expires.
Which ingredients are parabens?
Common names for parabens include methylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben. Sneakily, they can also be listed as Benzyl-parahydroxybenzoic acid - or anything containing "parahydroxybenzoic acid" which is what "paraben" is short for.
Reservatrol
What is this?
Resveratrol is a polyphenol found in the skin of red grapes that is naturally produced in grapes and other plants. It is believed to help reduce photo aging and the effects of sun damage on the skin.
Why is it in my face cream?
Studies have been done that show that the inclusion of Reservatrol can lead to high-potency rejuvenation compound that neutralizes the aging effects of free radicals and oxidative stress that can lead to premature aging of cells. This hasn't been completely proven, but studies suggest that this is a powerful way to combat signs of ageing and boost skin rejuvenation.
Retin-A
What is it?
Retin-A is the brand name for tretinoin, a derivative of Vitamin A. Like BHA is used to treat acne, whiteheads, blackheads, and reduce fine lines. It has also been proven to help treat sun damage and hyperpigmentation.
Which ingredient is Retin-A?
Retin-A is known by several other brand names including Atralin, Renova, Avita, Altinac. Its chemical name is tretinoin.
Silicones (Dimethicone)
What are Silicones?
Silicones are polymers containing silicon along with other elements like oxygen, carbon, and hydrogen. Dimethicone is the most common form of silicone used in cosmetics and skincare. You'll find it everywhere. Face primers use it in high amounts because it forms a smooth, poreless, waterproof and oil proof barrier on the skin making it a perfect canvas for makeup application. Hair products use it to coat the hair shaft, making it shiny and tangle free. Foundations use it for slip, and to create fun textures. Although it is mostly harmless, it may cause breakouts for some in high concentrations.
Which ingredient is it?
As mentioned, the most commonly used Silicone is dimethicone. But anything ending in "-cone" is usually a silicone.
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With thanks to Emily Tan of So Loverly for help on this piece.
